Care for handmade pottery without damaging the glaze
A handmade bowl, mug or vase carries small signs of its maker: a thumbprint at the rim, a brush mark in the glaze, or a gently uneven foot. Those variations are part of its character, but they can also make it more sensitive to heat, water and abrasion. Treating pottery as a durable household object is sensible; treating every piece as though it can survive the dishwasher is not.
For handmade pottery from local potters, care depends on what was used in the clay body and glaze. Earthenware is porous, stoneware is generally less absorbent, and porcelain can be thin or translucent. A glossy glaze behaves differently from matte, satin or reactive surfaces, while unglazed clay and raku have their own limits. This is why advice to “just put it in the dishwasher” can shorten the life of a lovely piece or ruin it in one cycle.
Australian buyers often meet studio ceramics through open studios in Melbourne, weekend maker stalls around Byron Bay, or rows of mixed-craft sellers at Adelaide Central Market. Plenty of potters also sell direct through their own websites and market stalls, so the maker’s care notes are worth more than a generic cleaning rule. Informal conversation matters too: a quick “How do you wash this?” when a stall opens in the arvo can prevent a costly mistake.
Learn what you are caring for
Begin by identifying the clay body, glaze and firing method. “Stoneware” suggests strength and lower absorption, but it does not automatically mean dishwasher-safe. “Porcelain” may be vulnerable to sudden heat, while unglazed terracotta absorbs moisture and oil. Reactive glazes can pool, streak or break across a surface, so colour variation is not a defect. The maker’s label or notes are the best starting point.
| Pottery type or finish | Everyday cleaning | Main caution |
|---|---|---|
| Glazed stoneware | Lukewarm water and mild dish soap | Sudden temperature changes can crack it |
| Porcelain | Careful hand washing with a soft cloth | Thin forms and decorated rims chip easily |
| Unglazed terracotta | Damp sponge with minimal soaking | Porosity absorbs water, oils and colour |
| Matte or reactive glaze | Non-abrasive cleaner and soft cloth | Uneven surfaces may stain or mark differently |
| Raku and decorative ware | Dry dusting or a gentle damp wipe | Often unsuitable for food, liquid or heat |
Food safety is separate from durability. Use a piece for food only when the potter says its clay and glaze are food-safe; do not assume that attractive colours or an intact surface are enough. An unglazed, decorative or vintage piece may absorb residues even when it looks clean. If crazing, chips or an unknown glaze are present, keep it away from food until a ceramic conservator or the maker can advise.
Ask for the details that packaging may have lost: clay body, glaze, food use, microwave and oven suitability, and cleaning method. Beyond the Sea in Lincolnville Beach, Maine, reflects this wider maker-led approach to retail. Its account of hand-dyed silk scarves from a local artisan shows why material-specific advice belongs with a handmade object: fibre, dye and pottery each need different care. If the potter cannot confirm a use, choose the gentler option.
Use a gentle routine for everyday pieces
Start with the least aggressive method that will do the job, and wash the piece while it is still slightly warm rather than scalding it.
Everyday cleaning
- Rinse food and drink residue away soon after use.
- Use lukewarm water with a small amount of mild dish soap.
- Choose a soft sponge, cloth or nylon brush instead of abrasive pads.
- Let the piece air-dry fully before storing it.
Persistent soaking can encourage staining or leave water trapped in porous clay. For heavier residue, use a soft brush rather than increasing pressure with the sponge.
Periodic cleaning
- Loosen dried food with a wooden or plastic utensil rather than metal scraping.
- Make a gentle paste with baking soda and water, then test it in a hidden spot.
- Use a soft toothbrush on textured areas and around narrow rims.
- Rinse with lukewarm water and dry on a rack or clean cloth.
A dishwasher can be suitable for some fully glazed stoneware, but its heat, detergent and prolonged moisture may dull satin glazes, affect decorated rims or stress crazed pieces. “Dishwasher-safe” is useful only when it comes from the maker. Microwaves and ovens are stricter: metallic decoration can cause sparks, while trapped moisture or thermal shock can crack the clay.
Unglazed terracotta and earthenware should be wiped with a damp sponge, not immersed. Their pores trap water, oils and pigments; soap and prolonged washing can leave a dark ring. Brush out loose dust, blot spills promptly and keep the piece away from oil-based products. If a glaze has been applied only to the rim, clean the bare clay separately.
Remove stains without attacking the surface
Stains need the gentlest effective treatment, but the mark and the surface should be identified first. Grease usually sits on top, tea and coffee often lodge in matte glazes, and mineral deposits create a pale, chalky film. Test any cleaner on the base or another inconspicuous area because abrasive products can permanently scratch a glossy finish.
For fresh tea or coffee marks on a food-safe glazed surface, try the baking-soda paste, leave it briefly, then rinse and dry. A little mild dish soap handles grease. Avoid bleach, oven cleaner and scouring powder; they can bleach colour, etch the glaze or leave a harsh residue. A soft cloth is more useful here than aggressive scrubbing.
Acids need caution. Vinegar or lemon can lift mineral deposits on a tolerant glaze, but they may etch unglazed limestone-rich clay and alter matte or reactive finishes. Water conditions also vary across Australia: Adelaide tap water is generally soft, whereas Brisbane and many coastal homes can see hard-water film. Use distilled or filtered water for a final rinse when deposits are persistent, and follow the potter’s advice before using any acidic cleaner.
Cosmetic and toiletry stains deserve a different approach. Lipstick, mascara, perfume and oily hand cream can penetrate porous clay or settle in a textured glaze. Blot fresh marks with a damp white cloth, work a little baking soda over the area with a soft brush, and avoid acetone or spot remover unless the maker confirms it is safe. For outdoor pots, rinse salt spray with fresh water, provide drainage and do not leave the piece standing in water through a frosty night.
Store and use pieces for their longest life
Storage causes more damage than many owners expect. Do not stack bowls directly inside one another; use tissue, paper or a soft separator, and keep heavy pieces below light ones. Leave space around handles and decorative projections, because a tight cupboard can turn a small glaze chip into a fracture. A cabinet away from direct afternoon sun also reduces fading and heat stress.
Set tableware on trivets and coasters, and lift decorated vessels by their body rather than a thin rim. If a piece is chipped, photograph the damage, separate it from daily use and ask a ceramic repair specialist about a food-safe repair. Household superglue and epoxy can create a rigid joint that fails differently from clay, so they are not reliable long-term solutions.
Across Australia, storage needs reflect the local climate. In hot, dry areas, avoid placing delicate glazes beside a west-facing window; in humid coastal homes, let damp pieces dry before closing them in a cupboard. A ventilated shelf protects against dust and pet knocks while allowing moisture to escape. Outdoor pieces also need checking for cracks that may admit water.
Direct questions are easiest to answer in person, and maker events offer useful chances to learn. Listings such as Beyond the Sea’s local events calendar show how a neighbourhood shop can bring artist talks, signings and demonstrations alongside the goods on sale. The same kind of studio opening common in Melbourne, Adelaide and regional towns often lets buyers ask about clay, firing and safe cleaning without relying on guesswork.
Make care part of the piece’s story
Keep care information with the potter’s receipt, a note in a drawer or a photograph of the maker’s label. Record whether the piece is for food, liquid, microwave or oven use, plus the safest washing method. For an inherited or gift pot, look for a studio mark, the maker’s name and the clay or glaze description; an image of the underside can often help a potter or retailer identify it.
Handmade variation is another reason to resist a single universal rule. Two mugs with the same glaze may differ in porosity, thickness and thermal response because they came from different firings or clay bodies. If a piece is labelled purely decorative, protect it as an artwork rather than forcing it into food service. If its history is uncertain, gentle dry cleaning and limited handling preserve more than repeated chemical treatment.
The most practical care routine is simple: identify the clay and glaze, wash gently by hand, test stain removers in a hidden spot, store the piece without pressure, and follow the maker’s specific instructions. That small set of habits protects the glaze, the form and the maker’s work at the same time, keeping an everyday handmade pot useful for years.